2020 autumn/winter collection
"RATS" x "MINEDENIM"
"RATS" x "MINEDENIM" collaboration project denim jacket and pants announced to commemorate the 15th anniversary of "RATS".Prior to its release, a dialogue between Katsutada Mano of "RATS" and Tsuyoshi Noguchi, who handles "MINEDENIM", was realized.The place is the BAR "VIV" (Nakameguro, Tokyo), which is a memory of the two of us.He talked about how this collaboration was born and the commitment of the two people to the new denim jackets and pants.A special dialogue full of valuable talk only here.
What kind of memory is the place of this dialogue, BAR "VIV", for you two?
Mano"About 25 years ago, I was introduced to my sister and worked at this store. My senior was Koji Kato, a paradise dragonfly. I'm working at this store, so it didn't sell very well yet. It was a great attitude (laughs). I was a newcomer, so at first I set up as a senior, but then I didn't know which one was the senior (laughs). "
(I.e."I was a customer. When Mano made curry, he called me." Come to eat. ""
Mano"Because I was free (laughs)"
(I.e."I used to stop by because it was just my way home. Now it's refurbished and fashionable, but it used to feel like an old-fashioned snack. But I wonder if I liked the old atmosphere better."
Mano"The ceiling was low and narrow, though."
So, did you both know each other in front of this store?
(I.e."That's right. A few years ago when Mano worked here?"
Mano"I think I'm about 18 or 19 years old. I think I met him in Harajuku. At that time, mobile phones weren't so popular and it might be LINE, so I went to play several times. I felt like I would become friends while I was meeting. At that time, Harajuku was a gathering of young players from all over Tokyo, and even there, Kou-kun was already a celebrity and was a model, right? "
(I.e."It was a time when I was working as a model while working as a stylist's assistant. After that, I started to meet with Mano at" Gold "(a popular big box club in the bay area at that time), and I became more and more familiar with him. It's been almost 30 years since then. "
Mano"I worked for this" VIV "for about 3 years, then about 15 years for" Hide & Seek "in Harajuku, and then XNUMX years for" RATS ". Finally, I was able to collaborate strongly (laughs). "
Was this collaboration a proposal from Mr. Mano?
Mano"That's right. I can't ask Mr. Noguchi for it."
(I.e."What are you talking about, this is a subcontractor, so if you ask me, I'll do anything (laughs)."
Mano"No, seriously, I've only been here for 15 years, but I'm a big senior because I've been at the forefront of fashion for 30 years now. But I can't ask for it so easily. I have to work hard, gain some achievements in the fashion world, and not be recognized. I knew that I like fashion, but I can actually do it as a business. I don't know until I try it for a few years. At first, I was told that it was a copy of somewhere, a second brew, but after 15 years, I finally became myself, "RATS". It seems like something like that has been created. It's really finally done. "
Wasn't it a collaboration with Mr. Noguchi after resigning?
Mano"When I thought of it as a memorial to the 15th anniversary, it was possible to search from my own world view, but I tried something with a fashion professional who had a completely different world view. Then, I was wondering if a different chemical reaction would occur. At that time, a strong assistant came to Reese and the denim pants he was wearing were me. It was close to the color of the denim I was looking for all the time. When I heard that it was the denim I made at the place where I was strong, I asked him if he could make my denim as well. "
(I.e."Why don't you ask your assistant for that? (Laughs)"
Mano"No, I think it's bad to ask forcibly. Even if you ask directly, you may not be dealt with (laugh)"
(I.e."No, of course I will do it, even if it's not the 15th anniversary."
What kind of order did you make specifically from Mr. Mano?
Mano"It's still a color. It's a little grayish indigo, it's like the rigid of the old" Wrangler ". I was asked to find such a denim fabric at a strong place, so I decided on this." I've been making denim that riders can wear, but I was wondering if I could collaborate with Kou-kun to create a new and sophisticated rider style. "
(I.e."The color is similar to what I used to do with" MINEDENIM ", but I made it a little different. Of course, it's the first color I've never used with" MINEDENIM "."
What else are you particular about?
Mano"It's a shape. It's difficult to wear a vintage denim shape right now. It's short and wide. It's almost like a cosplay. It's a sophisticated shape that doesn't look old-fashioned. I asked "MINEDENIM". Even though our customers have many bikers, denim pants that are too thick are not like now, and on the contrary, if they are too thin, it is difficult to ride a motorcycle. Exquisite thickness In pursuit of this, it became this shape. "
(I.e."In" MINEDENIM ", I didn't dare to make denim with an authentic silhouette, but the line of" RATS "is a relatively authentic shape regardless of the thickness of the pants or the jacket, so I finish it faithfully. However, it is difficult to understand unless you actually wear it. Moreover, because it is a rigid, the facial expression changes as you wear it, and wrinkles etc. are formed and it becomes familiar to the body. It may be difficult. However, I don't think people who wear it so much will choose who wears it. Even if a slim foreign model wears it, it looks good, so it's a macho man with a good gatai or a person with a strong character. It suits everyone without it. I think it's a denim for everyone. That's the goodness of authenticity. "
The details are also authentic.Comes with ears (Selvedge).The front is a zip fly.The placket is diamond stitched.
Mano"The position of the yoke is a little lower because the length is longer than the vintage. On the contrary, the rise of the pants is a little deeper, and the hem width is of course narrower than the vintage."
(I.e."But it seems that young children today aren't interested in such vintage details as having ears."
The jacket has a blanket liner, right?
Mano"For those who ride a motorcycle, I'm grateful for the liner when it comes to winter outerwear. In the winter of Tokyo now, I think I can go with this liner G Jean until around December, and when it gets colder, I'll put it on top of this. If you wear the best, it will look like this. This is also a request from "RATS". "
The sizes are S, M, L notation, but is this also the style of "RATS"?
(I.e."We are in inches."
Mano"S is about 29 to 30 inches. From there, it's in XNUMX inch increments. However, it's rigid, so I wash it and make it larger so that it's that size."
(I.e."I just came up with this, but can I make this model's black denim exclusively for" MINEDENIM "?"
Mano"It's OK at all, please do it."
(I.e."I will make it with black dyed with Kyoto crest, which" MINEDENIM "has been doing for a long time."
Mano"It's a dye that doesn't turn whitish, isn't it? That's amazing. If you can, please give me one (laughs).
It's a rigid, but how long does Mano-san start wearing this and don't wash it?
Mano"I don't wear it every day, so I'll keep wearing it for about a year without washing it."
(I.e."I'm going to dry clean. When I come out of dry cleaning, there's an indescribable shine, and I don't know if it's oil (or chemical?) Or heat, but it's an exquisite taste, and it's fine. I like it. Actually, I tried several times to make the process from the beginning, but I have never done it before. Why? I wonder. "
This collaboration commemorates the 15th anniversary of "RATS". What kind of changes will you see after 15 years?
Mano"Recently, the number of young customers has increased. It's been around the last 2-XNUMX years."
(I.e."Because the priority of young children's clothes is changing. It's because of fast fashion. It's okay for jeans to be cheap. Instead, spend money on games or something different."
Mano"Actually, I'm changing the target of" RATS ". Until now, I've been planning mainly, but recently I've taken in the opinions of my son (22 years old) and tried to expand the range. As a result, the number of young customers has increased. It seems that not only bikers but also parents and children fishing, surfing and skateboarding sons are increasing. "
What are your goals for the 20th anniversary of "RATS" and beyond?
Mano"As I said earlier, it's finally the 15th anniversary. I wonder if it was somehow recognized by people.
Even craftsmen say that they practice for 10 years.It's like having finally finished training and entering elementary school.However, I wondered if I could find the style of "RATS", but I was a little confident, and that kind of feeling was born. "RATS" is not a high brand but a street brand, but it's not just a biker, it's a life-sized style that parents and children can wear.I want to continue to build on that. "
(I.e."It's true that" RATS "is changing into a brand with a wide range of customers. Still, of course, we will continue to make clothes that people who like clothes can understand. I want you to continue to exist. "
Thank you all!
Special Thanks_VIV (3-11-28 Nakameguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo)
Blanket Lining Denim Jacket
Denim 5 Pocket Straight Pants
Blanket Lining Denim Jacket ・ Wool blanket is used for the lining, and the outerwear has excellent cold protection.
Denim 5Pocket Straight Pants ・ RATS The feature is the stitch work of the pocket which is a standard of denim pants.
Denim straight pants that have been updated every season by correcting small lines.
Both product numbers use 13.5oz selvedge denim fabric.It is a denim that uses a natural unevenness thread mixed with Supima for the warp.
Supima has a long fiber length and has a glossy and slimy feel.Weaving is a low-tension, rough texture that takes advantage of the characteristics of shuttle looms.
It is mercerized and features a clear and sharp appearance.
RATS ｜ Rats
LIFE LESSON An apparel brand based on the concept of "Way Of Life". Started in 2004 with T-Shirts graphics as the center.The collection, which has been released irregularly since then, is a rugged yet delicate expression of universal items from a unique perspective.An antithesis against values that seek stability and become conservative and fixed in life. "I want to sublimate every day as a way to live the real experience that I can get for the first time with a body that lives on the ground like a rat. That is RATS" Way Of Life "and the meaning of the motif of the rat. ..